Pave Setting is one of the most tedious setting styles to accomplish
which requires great deal of patience, skill and good tool control.
Below I have explained the procedure to set round diamonds in pave with perfection.
Following are the steps which describe the process of setting melees in pave set pendant.
Layout for Pave
Before setting diamonds in any setting, layout is essential as it helps in anticipating and avoiding problems. Before diamonds are set, setter must know the exact locations where are to be set.
Begin by drilling holes that are 50% of the diamonds table diameter. With the help of ball bur or bud bur open the holes to 90% of the diamonds diameter and with the help of stone setting bur tool cut the seat.
It’s important to keep in mind that bur tool should match with the exact diameter of diamonds. Diamonds should fit tightly and firmly into the grooves you have created.
|Seats of Stones|
Note that while working with melee less than 3mm in diameter, the seats must be deep enough so that the table of each stone is in same level with the top of the metal surface.
Now, work to finally set your diamonds. Any hurry at this stage will spoil your work done so far. Trim away any excess metal left by burring and bearing.
Start placing the diamonds in their respective grove or seat in their setting position (table top). With the help of brass pusher, position each diamond into its respective groove.
Verify that all diamonds are at the same level, are at uniform height and arranged symmetrically with even spacing.
Cutting of Prongs (Beads)
Prongs can be cut in following two ways:
Always remember to roll the prongs onto the diamonds. To do this first seat the graver tool deeply into the metal, then use the graver face as a fulcrum to roll the prongs onto the diamonds. Avoid pushing the prong towards a diamond, as doing so metal can move the prong off at its base.
Now check with a 10X loupe or under microscope that prongs have even hold over diamonds and all prongs are at even height. At this point there should not be any movement in the set diamonds.
Shape the prongs using an appropriate sizes beading tool to ensuring even and consistent round form.
|Finished Pave Set Pendant|
Common Flaws of Pave Setting
The beads are unevenly spaced and not of same size and don’t cover the diamonds.
Excess Spacing between Diamonds
There is excess metal left between the diamonds and are unevenly spaced.
|Excess Spacing between Diamonds|
Metal Surface not Smooth
Diamonds are damaged while setting, tool marks have not been removed and metal surface is not uniform, smooth and scratch free.
|Uneven Metal Surface|
Diamonds set at different Height
If the diamonds are set at different height then it’s a faulty workmanship.
|Diamonds Set at Different Height|