Rose cut diamond was developed in middle of 16th century and is the primitive version of modern Round Brilliant Cut. In this cut, facets arrangement in diamond gives the illusion of opening rosebud.
In this cut, diamonds have pattern of triangular facets arranged in symmetry radiating from central point on the top of the diamond. Bottom of stone ends on crowns and portion where usually pavilion is cut is left flat. Thus it can be said that all the sparkle comes from the top facets and there is no internal reflection of light.
Since, various old diamonds found in India had rose like cut, it’s believed that this cut was first developed in India. However, western cutters who were influenced by Indian version of the cut improvised on it in order to make it more symmetrical.
Sometimes, at the back of stone with this cut, foil paper is glued while setting in jewelry. This is done to enhance the sparkle of diamond. You can see the mesmerizing beauty of this cut to its best under low light or candlelight. However, compared to modern round brilliant cut, rose diamond’s sparkle diminishes under electric lighting.
This is the oldest cut seen in Estate jewelry. Over the period of time it has evolved with respect to number of facets and their arrangements, and depth of the stone.
Mesmerizing brilliance of round brilliant cut has replaced the old world charm and beauty of rose pattern cut. However, these days with the trend of designer jewelry, jewelry designers like me are reviving the beauty of this cut.
Antique rose diamonds are never perfectly round i.e. their perimeter is never perfectly circular. So, be careful if you looking for an antique rose and find a perfectly round rose diamond. Because the chances are that it could be a machine cut diamond made to replicate rose.
Types of Rose Cut
Following are the types:
It has one single layer of 3 facets.
It has one single layer of 6 facets.
It has two rows of horizontal layers of facets.
It has two or even three rows of horizontal layers of facets and comparatively has more height than any other forms of rose pattern. There are no fix proportions for facets arrangement and it generally varies. It resembles 2 rose stones joined back to back.
This cut was introduced in Antwerp and has hexagonal shape.