Bezel Setting of Round Diamonds

Bezels are one of the most accepted styles for setting diamonds in fine jewelry. They are smooth, offer substantial security and blend nicely with most designs.

In this article, I will explain you how round brilliant diamonds are set into the yellow gold central links of this two-tone inline bracelet (image above). The bracelet links are cast and have a wall thickness of 1.2 mm.

Setting Process

Following are the steps and procedures that describe bezel setting of round diamonds. You may also read about prong setting of round diamonds and channel setting of round diamonds.

Preparing the Bearings

As each bracelet link is identical, so an automated burring procedure is followed to create the bearings. This allows burring each bearing in just a few seconds with consistent depth. The high-speed setting bur should be slightly smaller than the diameter of the diamond.

Burring Tool

• Total depth of the bearing is estimated and accordingly device setting is adjusted. Setting bur is selected such that it is equal to or slightly smaller than the overall diameter of diamonds.
• While burring, it is necessary to keep checking the depth of bearing. Goal is to remove 45%-50% of the thickness of the bezel wall.

• Bur the bearings one after the other, using lubrication. If a diamond has low crown height then position its bearing little higher than others, so that all diamonds are in same level when set. When finished, all bearings will be prepared identically.

Setting and Finishing

All metal fragments, filings and obstructions are removed from each bezel and ensured:

• The bezel is high enough to secure the diamond, but not too high.
• The diamond fits snugly and drops into the bezel without force.

Below steps are followed in this process:

• Diamonds are placed in their respective bearing in their setting position.
• Diamond is placed into the bearing and bezel metal is bent over the stone. To start this process, initially the stone is secured by partially bending the bezel from four opposite directions. Pushing tool is used to bend the metal over the stone. Bending is done slowly and this process is repeated till grip of bezel on diamond is tight and diamonds are secure.

Bending Metal over Stone

• Same procedure is followed in all direction for bending metal over stone.
• Finally, top of the bezel wall should be in full contact with the crown, covering about 10% of the crown.

Fully Bent Metal Over Stone

• Similarly, all stones are set and when finished, the bezels should look identical. The width of the bezel holding the diamond should be uniform, smooth and dent or scratch free. Bezel should be wide enough to hold the diamond properly. However, if rims are too wide it will cover most of the crown area of the diamond.

Common Flaws of Bezel Setting

Irregular

The bezel is not symmetrical, its thickness is uneven and it’s poorly finished.

Bezel too Thin

Width of metal that is bent over the crown is too thin. This will not be able secure the stone in proper manner.

Stone too Low

The bezel is too low for the gemstone, which will become dislodged and lost during normal wear.

Stone not at Horizontal Level

Stone is not set at horizontal level which shows poor craftsmanship.

Buyer’s Checklist of Bezel Setting

• The bezel is at proper height to secure the diamond without obstructing its beauty.
• The bezel is made of substantial components, appropriate to the article of jewelry for which it’s made.
• The bezel is of even thickness, symmetrical and finished consistently.
• The bezel joint has no visible solder seams.
• The top portion of the bezel is evenly burnished over the stone.
• The thickness of the bezel wall is even and the wall is finished consistently and in full contact with the stone.

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