Princess Shaped Diamond

Princess Shaped Diamond is relatively new and was developed in 1980 by Betzalel Amber and Israel Itzkowitz. Princess shape is very versatile and has flexibility of blending in almost any style of ring. This makes it second most popular diamond shape after round shaped diamond.

Princess Shaped Diamond

Princess Diamond - Top and Side view

Facets Pattern

Princess diamond has square shape with sharp edges and is the most popular diamond shape in Mixed Cut facets arrangement category. The other facets arrangements are Brilliant (facets pattern radiates from the center of the stone towards the edge with triangular or kite shaped facets) and Step (concentric rows of trapezoidal facets running parallel to the girdle).

The princess shape is categorized under Mixed cut because it adopts the Brilliant facets arrangement in crown and Step facets arrangement in pavillion.

Number of facets depends on the facets arrangements of the pavilion. It has either 50 facets (21 crown, 4 girdle and 25 pavilion facets) or 58 facets (21 crown, 4 girdle, and 33 pavilion facets). If the facets arrangement is symmetrical, it can have very good fire and brilliance leading to beautiful sparkle.

Princess is traditionally a square shape with four sides being of equal length. But, often princess shape is given rectangular shape to reduce the wastage. Due to this, as the princess shape moves towards the rectangle, its price decreases.

Princess Shaped Diamond Facets Patterns

Princess Diamond - Top and Bottom Facets' Pattern

Length to width ratio of 1.05 or less will appear square to naked eye.

Princess Shaped Diamond Length to Width Ratio

Princess Diamond - Length to Width Ratio

Why is the Price of Princess Shape Less than Round Shape?

Diagrammatic View of Princess Diamond in Rough

Following are the primary reasons:

  • Less Wastage: Princess shaped diamond is cut from octahedron rough stone and the four sided pyramid shape of the princess diamond are similar to one-half of the original rough stone. This allows the cutter to cut two equal sized princess shape diamond from one rough stone. This leads to retention of almost 60% to 80% of the original weight of rough as against only 50% in round diamond. Due to high yield, it can be priced less.
  • Low Labor Cost: Princess shape comparatively needs less time in cutting and polishing than round shape. This reduces the labor cost which decreases its price.

It must be noted that of all the fancy shaped (shapes other than round) diamonds, like - marquise and pear - princess tends to appear smallest for same carat weight. This is because maximum carat weight of this shape lies in upside down pyramid-shaped pavilion. Princess shape with larger depth percentage appears to be smaller in length and width than lesser depth stones of same carat weight.

I will suggest you to consider princess shape with depth of 58% to 75% and table of 59% to 70%. At this optimum depth range, you can get bigger looking diamond with great brilliance.

To learn more about depth and table proportions, refer Cut Proportions where concept has been explained for round diamond. Please note that Ideal proportions mentioned there holds true for round diamond and not for princess diamond.


Princess diamonds are quite versatile and can be set in different settings. But, due to sharp edges, these are also prone to chipping and damage. However, with appropriate settings, damage can be avoided.

Following are the widely used settings for princess diamond:

  • Prong Setting: V-shaped prong setting looks beautiful on princess shaped diamond and it also provides safety to four corners of diamond.

Princess Shaped Diamond with V-Prong Setting

Princess Diamond - V Prong Setting

  • Channel Setting: Square shape enable princess to be set in channel setting, princess can be set one after another with no gaps between two stones. This setting is very popular in female and male engagement and wedding bands.
Princess Shaped Diamond with Channel Setting

Princess Diamond - Channel Setting

  • 3 Stone Setting: Princess diamonds are popularly set with two trillion diamonds (one on both sides of princess) to create beautiful three stone engagement rings. Read about Three Stone Jewelry.
Princess Shaped Diamond 3 Stone Setting

Princess Diamond - 3 Stone Setting

  • Side Stone Setting: Princess diamond looks beautiful with side stones as well. Several small princess, emeralds, baguettes and round stones blend beautifully with princess shape as the center stone.
Princess Shaped Diamond Side Stone Setting

Princess Diamond - Side Stone Setting

Is the Princess Diamond My Choice?


If you are looking for something unique and different for your engagement or wedding ring, then you can choose among princess cut engagement rings and princess cut wedding rings. The square shaped princess shape can make you feel like a princess in a unique way :).


Usually, princess shaped diamond is least expensive for the given carat weight. Also, princess creates illusion of bigger diamond as compared to round diamond. So, if you want bigger looking diamond at lesser price then choose among princess cut engagement rings.

But, you should also keep in mind that princess cut engagement rings and princess cut wedding rings are usually set with side stones which also add to the cost. So, choose your side setting wisely.


Princess shape is very versatile and can be set in number of settings like prong setting, channel setting and side stone setting. Princess diamond looks beautiful in princess cut engagement and wedding rings and princess cut diamond earrings. So if you are looking for something trendy and fashionable then princess shape is your choice.

Celebrities’ Choice

Princess shaped diamond is quite popular among celebrities.

The always posh Victoria Beckham was seen sporting princess cut diamond earrings. Ali Larter, the star of the hit television series Heroes, received 5 carat princess cut engagement ring from actor Hayes MacArthur. Selma Blair wore princess cut diamond earrings at premier of 'Hellboy II: The Golden Army'.

Return from Princess Shaped Diamond to Diamond Shapes

Return from Princess Shaped Diamond to Diamond Jewelry Homepage

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